Baknouq, Berber Woman’s Shawl Tunisia/Libya (border region) Early 20th century Wool, cotton, resist-dyeing, embroidery 45 ¼ x 80 ins This baknouq represents a rare, and sparsely collected and documented, style from this rural Berber tradition, probably reflecting its origins from a region between southern Tunisia and Libya. While this subtly beautiful textile shares features with other Tunisian covers and headcloths, such as the deep indigo field framed by colorful tie-dyed borders at opposite ends, the eccentric designs are embroidered with white cotton rather than woven into the cloth prior to dyeing. These elements, which are primarily linear or zigzag but include an anomalous abstract interlacing configuration, are rendered with spindly, Twombly-like lines that evoke drawing or calligraphy. They are scattered in a seemingly random arrangement, and when the textile is worn or draped over the head and body, become like diagonal streaks of light or rain on across the dark field. Another unusual feature of the design is the contrast between the negative and positive expression of the resist dyed patterning at either side. This effect was achieved by binding the circular motifs on opposite faces of the cloth. When these tied shapes were unbound after two dye baths of indigo blue and red, the dye-resisted elements emerged as either an outlined or a solid form depending which side of the textile was facing up. This may have been a deliberate choice to enhance the beauty of the cloth when it was worn. It also injects an element of playful asymmetry and surprise in keeping with the overall character of the composition. Price on request
